How to Be Cat Like

Cats have always been a symbol of magic, independence, mystery and femininity. A cat-like, sophisticated, cute girl is an ideal for many guys, but that's not the main point - in fact, behaving oneself like a cat can be fun. The look, the behavior, and the personality of a cat is a fun and magical way to be. It can even become a way of life - try it to see if you will enjoy it.

Steps

1 Be more independent. Walk to the beat of your own drum, don't let people walk all over you and don't be afraid to fly solo sometimes. Cats don't need possies. They need friends but not groupies. If you want to take a class or go somewhere (perhaps and art exhibit, or musical) but your friends don't, then take the chance to have some alone time, or learn to say no to the popular crowd, or learn to walk down the hall alone without feeling at all insecure. Don't worry about what anyone else is doing. You don't have to be part of the in crowd to be popular, and you don't have to be popular to be cat like.

2 Incorporate some hunting instincts. If you are blessed with a pool there are pool toys that run around the bottom so you can enjoy the eye, stalk, chase, pounce, kill rush. Or if your cursed with flies hunt them down and pounce with the wrath of your fly swatter in hand it truly is more fun than it should be. You can even take small stuffed animals and have somebody hide them around the house and hunt for them that way. Allow yourself to think "I am fierce. I am the tigress!" Find a way to enjoy the instinct to kill and catch.

3 Be well groomed. Cats spend many hours a day grooming themselves so they look as stunning as they can. So take pride in your appearance and care for it: Steam your face over hot water (lean over a sink full of hot water and drape a towel over your head for a sauna effect), wash it with a cleanser for your skin type, then pat dry and apply lotion twice a day. Brush your teeth, clean your tongue, floss, and rinse with minty mouthwash after every meal and before bed. Brush and style your hair every morning. Pumice down your heels, and lotion your entire body twice daily. Always have a clean shave, dandruff free hair, deodorant on, and clean your ears. Shave your legs and armpits, wash your hair every other day, apply conditioner daily, apply a nice perfume, and take a (quick) shower every morning.

4 Take care of your claws. Use a strengthening nail polish base coat and raise your calcium intake. Paint them a nude, light pink or brown and add french tips for good measure. Make sure they are always clean and file them when necessary. Grow them long like claws but not so long you can't hold a pencil normally. If you are cursed with short nails, you can be a de-clawed cat.

5 The morning routine fit for a queen. (If you didn't catch that joke: female cats are called queens.)Wake up each morning with yoga (cats usually stretch when they wake up!) using some good yoga DVDs that increase flexibility, beauty, and energy. Do yoga for 20 minutes. Then follow it up with a 15 minute morning jog. Learn to breathe deeply without panting like a dog while you jog, but don't over do it. The yoga should help with this. Also, when you jog step very lightly, as you should not be heard. It will take some practice. Once you come home drink plenty of water and enjoy a lean breakfast. ABSOLUTELY NO: white bread toast (breaks down into sugars too easily), bacon (to fatty not enough protein), bagels (high calorie carbs bloating especially with cream cheese!), or breakfast sandwiches (crap stacked between white bread! NO!). Instead have an omelet with a small amount of low fat cheese and maybe some light yogurt or fruit. (Excellent source of protein and calcium.!) Then groom your self for the day.

6 Eat a healthy diet. Cats eat lots of meat and fish, so try to have some with every meal. Also, they eat vegetables that are in their cat food, so eat those too. Cats love milk. But, you also need some fruits and whole grains. Make sure to have some of each food group in every meal you eat. Eat 3 meals and 1 snack daily. Never eat too much and never eat too little.

7 Stay lean, agile, and graceful. Take ballet classes a few to several times a week, take pilates, do yoga, run track, archery, fencing, hunting, dancing, martial arts, or just go to the gym! Make sure to do at least two of these activities, but you can do others. You need to learn at least some moves in martial arts, the basics of fencing, running fast, doing yoga and pilates at home with DVDs, some basic dance moves, and exercise daily.

8 Express your moods. Some think cats show no emotions but you can tell their emotion by their body language and the tone in their meow some say their cats meows differently when they want food than they do when they want to play or go outside. Express your emotions through tone of voice and body language.

9 Be determined. If you hide something from a cat and it doesn't know about it it's quite easy to stop it from getting it. If a cat figures out it likes something and decides to get it, It's almost impossible. They are NOT lazy they will work for what they want! So find the dream and live it!

10 Be able to relax anywhere. Stretch, flop over, and relax anywhere you like. Even fall asleep. But, don't fall asleep at school. Cats are extremely smart and would get straight A's.

Some Adorable Cat Behaviors With Shockingly Evil Explanations

There seem to be two kinds of people in the world: those who don't understand cats, and those who think cats are kind of douchebags.

Unfortunately for cat lovers, science has kind of come down on the side of that second group. Research has revealed that a lot of the quirky and even cute things your kitty does are actually signs that your cat is kind of a dick.

#6. Meowing to Imitate a Baby Human

Cats have many different ways of communicating, but the meow is every cat's go-to vocalization when it wants to tell us something; be it, "I'm hungry," "pay attention to me" or "I just took a dump, go clean it up." However, far from the one-dimensional barking sound that dogs use to communicate, cats are like living stereo equalizers that are able to fine tune the pitches and tones of their meows... so they can better manipulate you into doing what they want.

A recent study has shown that people subconsciously can tell the difference between a pleading or soliciting meow and a run of the mill, casual one just by listening to sound clips taken from different felines in different situations. The subjects said the soliciting sounds came across as more urgent and less pleasant than a normal meow, much like the cries a human baby makes when she's hungry.

In fact, further studies have proven that a cat's cry for food or attention shares a remarkable similarity in frequency to a baby's cry. It's not coincidence- it's pure, kitty evil genius.

Using their expertise in Soviet-style subliminal advertising, cats adjust their purrs and meows to include this frequency which then prompts their owners into responding to them more quickly. Like well trained animals ourselves, we respond because, not only is the sound annoying to us, but it also stimulates our natural instinct to immediately nurture anything that sounds like our offspring, even if it is covered in fur and named Mr. Bojangles.

#5. 

Leaving Their Poop Uncovered As An Insult

One of the major perks to owning a cat over, say, a dog or a horse, is that all cats instinctively drop their waste into neat little litter boxes, eliminating the need for frequent "walkies" and the palpable awkwardness that comes with the public use of pooper-scoopers and plastic baggies. Cats instinctively seek to bury their droppings, so it works out for everybody.

Contrary to popular assumptions though, this behavior doesn't come from Snowball's obsessive compulsive cleanliness, but rather an evolutionary holdover from before felines were domesticated and had more dangerous predators than the vacuum cleaner to worry about.

Burying the poop prevents detection by their enemies, but there's another layer to it, which is that they do it to avoid challenging the dominant cat of the group. It kind of makes sense, if burying the poop is a sign that they fear another, larger animal, then leaving it uncovered would be a pretty aggressive act. "No one here is bad enough to fuck with me. Enjoy my shit."

So... what do you suppose it means when your cat doesn't bother to cover his poop?

Yep, some cats intentionally leave their crap uncovered or in conspicuous locations (such as on a doormat or in your sister's bed) in order to communicate to us that they are the dominant member of the household, and that this territory is theirs.

In the wacky world of feline politics, feces act as little, smelly flags that clearly dictate the boundaries of each cat's domain. In the wild, these flags are intended to be seen, and smelled, by other cats, a sign that this is the stomping grounds of a badass kitty.

I claim this bed in the name of Admiral Bootiekins!

When it comes to the shared domain with humans that domesticated cats enjoy, the same territorial rules still apply, so a housecat who leaves his waste out in the open is sending the message to us that he is El Presidente, and that we should be covering up our shit, so as not to offend him.

And guess what? We do. We helpfully flush away our poop and your cat probably thinks it's done entirely to avoid offending him. Yes, if you want to take back your house, it's time to poop in kitty's bed.

#4. 

Rubbing Against You to Declare Ownership

By nature cats are hard to read. They're not like dogs, hopping around with joy when you walk in the door, or slinking away with shame when caught eating the garbage. No, cats have mastered an expression of almost disdainful indifference that they seem to wear regardless of their mood.

However, as any spinster will tell you, a cat's affection is obvious when its purring and rubbing its face and body against your leg. It's like the animal is giving you a little kitty hug the only way it knows how!

The problem with that, though, is when cats rub up against their owners, it has nothing to do with affection at all, but instead is kitty's way of claiming you as its property.

I own you, motherfucker!

Cats, like many other animals, are packed full of pheromone-oozing scent glands that are primarily used to communicate with other cats on such hot topics as identity, sexual availability and territorial ownership. The most active and important glands that a cat uses to send these messages are located on the tail, the side of the body and the face. Thus, when a cat rubs up against your legs or slides its face along your hand, it is engaging these glands in order to leave its unique scent on you.

That scent in turn communicates to any other animals in the vicinity that not only is it, say, female and horny, but that you, the human, belong to her. When a cat brushes against your legs, it's less a furry hug and more of a prison yard tattoo. One that reads, "Owned By: Mittens" and, "Single Siamese Female, 8, seeking uncut Tom for a romp in the alley."

What cats like to play with

Cats can be categorized as "sneakers and hunters". They hunt birds, mice and other small animals. Their method is, they sneak as close as possible towards their prey. Then they have the best chances to suddenly appear right next to the prey and grab it. If you understand this hunting behavior, you can have a lot of fun playing with your cat. Playing is absolutely necessary for the health and feelings of your cat. Here are some ideas on how you can do it:

- Take a straw and hide behind a furniture. Leave only a little piece of the straw that can be seen by your cat. Then move the straw backwards, so that the cat can see less of it. I bet you, the cat will jump at it before it's all gone behind the furniture.

- Take a piece of paper and crumple it to a ball. Then put a little cord around it and tie it up. Your cat will love this toy, you can use it for any kind of stuff. You hand hold it just as high that your cat can reach the ball. You can will jump at it. My cat used to do even somersaults when I used that toy.

- Cats will run after all kinds of little balls, like those little ones made of paper. Unfortunately they don't bring the balls back like dogs do it...

- You can use long tiny branches, sticks or blade of gras to play with your cat.

So there are various ways to play with your cat. Keep in mind that they like to chase, hide and creap than you will be able to come up with all kinds of new ideas on how to play with your cat. Be aware that cats don't always want to play. Cats sleep a lot during daytime and they might not want to be boughered. They are just different than dogs, they have their own "will". You can not force a cat to do anything, the cat will show you what it likes and what not, so listen carefully!

Finally you should give your cat the possibility to go outside the house, if possible. Cats love the nature and they love to play in the garden. Don't be afraid that your cat runs away, it will come back if you treated it good... You should get the cat used to be outside the house when it is little, then it will be able to build it's natural instincts.

The things Cats Like and Dislike

What A Cat Likes		What A Cat Dislikes
A little place inthe sun, near the stove, on the sofa, in the bed, atop the cupboard		A lonely life without contact, as an abandoned stray or kept in isolation
Several times a day, a "chat with its owner or with other cats		Food that is too cold or too hot or that has gone bad in dirty bowls
Eating together with the family, or being given a sample of foods now and then		Being combed when it has other important plans at the moment, or having matted knots of hair pulled out with force
Being brushed and combed gently, but only when the cat is in the mood for it		Marital disputes, screaming children, barking dogs, car and tractor noise, lowflying planes, noisy New Year's Eve parties, and thunderstorms
Quiet voices, friendly and gentle		People who disregard cats or are afraid of them
Visitors who try to win over the cat or bring it a liile something		Being treated as a decorative piece of furniture
Now and then catching a mouse, chasing chickens, startling its owner, annoying birds, playing with paper in little ball or rolls		Being shooed away from the place where it was sleeping
Sleeping undisturbed for hours on end		Being excluded from parts of the house
Doing acrobatics atop tall pieces of furniture or between glasses and vases, climbing curtains, shapening claws on sofa and wallpaper		Rainy weather, the cold with no chance to get warm
		Dandruffy hair, greasy, matted har on its coat, biting ticks, fleas, ear mites

cat and baby pictures

fab information sheet Cats and babies

Vet and behaviourist Francesca Riccomini offers advice on how to prepare your family feline for a new addition

FOR MANY OWNERS, their cat represents another family member and as such has equal access to all the resources their home has to offer. In feline terms, this includes human attention which is often on demand whenever anyone is at home.

It is not unusual for a pet to be nurtured and even spoiled, becoming the ‘baby' of the family. This is fine if it suits the cat's temperament and everyone involved, but problems can arise when a real baby is suddenly introduced into the household.

The problems can be severe if the cat is mature and has had little, or only negative, experience of babies and young children, particularly during the important kitten socialisation period of between two and seven weeks. Many of us acquire our cats when they are well past this stage or don't have the opportunity to introduce tiny kittens to small children. Although it is not impossible to make up for this lack of early experience in later life, it is best to make plans and preparations well in advance of a baby's birth.

How an individual cat will respond to a new arrival will depend upon genetics (breed and parentage as well as species), personality and experience. Sometimes, it has to be admitted that these do not predispose an individual to coexist harmoniously and safely with babies and young children. Some owners, after careful consideration of all the issues, decide that they cannot take the responsibility of keeping a particular pet when they have children and so find their cat a good home which is more suited to his needs. Sadly, the decision to relinquish a pet is not always so well considered and aggression towards children or urine spraying (for which the unprepared arrival of a baby can be a stimulus) is a not uncommon reason for cats to end up in need of rescue. It is not always possible to prevent such a sad outcome by preemptive action but it can often be avoided by careful thought and forward planning.

For the best possible chance of your extended family living happily together, two aspects need to be considered: the environment and the pet. Your cat needs to have his own bed, feeding and water dishes, toys, litter tray etc. Although these need to be sited somewhere convenient for all the humans in the house they also need to be in the right spot for the cat – the litter tray should be in a private position away from his food and away from areas of busy traffic, like the kitchen and hallway; the scratching post should be near an external door or close to where the cat already chooses to mark his territory by clawing. If possible, choose somewhere elevated for the cat to eat or rest, or an area which can be sealed off with a baby gate. This gives the cat a chance, at least, to escape the advances of a toddler. If the current locations of your cat's bed, litter tray and other requirements are going to prove impractical or unsuitable when the baby arrives, you will need to make changes now. It is important, particularly for an elderly cat, that these changes are made gradually.

Remember that the preferred feline method of dealing with something unsettling, which may represent a potential threat, is to hide, preferably in a high, dark, secluded place from which there is a good view, so that the situation can be assessed in safety. Such sanctuaries can easily be provided by putting cardboard boxes on their side, or igloo beds, on top of furniture or sturdy shelves. Provide a number of such retreats in various areas of your home, but especially where you will spend time with your baby and encourage their use by putting favoured blankets or tasty treats in them.

Often the room which is to be the nursery is one to which the cat has been allowed free access. It is advisable for this to be prevented well before the baby actually takes up residence. To reduce adverse reaction to the change and to prevent ‘barrier frustration', spray the closed door and its frame with Feliway or rub with ‘facial cloths'. Don't forget that indoor cats will be more affected by even small changes in their environment, territory and lifestyle, than those with access to the outdoors.

The feline olfactory system is very sensitive and scent is an important means of communication in the domestic cat. Thus any disturbance in the scent profile of a cat's territory can have a major impact and cause real distress to a pet. This is frequently unrecognised, but explains why equipment for the baby, acquired in advance of his or her arrival, often becomes the target for urination or spraying, as a cat attempts to reassure itself by ‘marking' the articles with its own scent in this way. Pheromone preparations can also, therefore, be usefully applied to such baby things as buggies, cots and highchairs. For this reason it is worth acquiring from friends and relatives as many everyday baby items as possible so that your cat can be introduced ahead of time to the wide range of often pungent odours he will later encounter! These may be minimal to us, with our poor sense of smell, but could represent a major stressful intrusion for a cat. Bringing the things into the home in a gradual and controlled way should not only reduce any aversive qualities associated with them by allowing your cat to adjust slowly to their presence, but should help you by creating opportunities to condition positive associations by, for instance, offering tasty food or indulging in a favourite game, when something first arrives.

It is worth remembering the essential ‘rules' of never reassuring a pet's anxiety or fear, as this will only make it worse. But reinforce relaxed behaviour by your cat in the face of any potential stressor with praise, petting, play or food.

A cat's hearing, like its sense of smell, is very much better than ours, so it would be worth playing, initially at low volume, tapes of baby noises – crying, gurgling, squealing etc. Again, reward the behaviour you wish to encourage and only increase the volume gradually as your cat indicates that he can cope.

It is, of course, helpful to have babies and young children visit your home, but choose the latter with care. Cats can find the experience overwhelming if confronted by youngsters who insist on pursuing them. Always supervise encounters and ensure that any handling is gentle and appropriate. Children should never be allowed to try and pick up a cat they are not strong enough to hold comfortably. They should always be shown how to support the pet's full weight with a hand under his bottom so that he is never allowed to dangle from his front legs. Remember too, that some conscientious children, when told not to let a kitten or small cat fall, inadvertently squeeze too hard so that their good intentions hurt the animal as much as those of the child who is rough and uncaring.

It is best to stick to hands-off interaction, such as playing with fishing rod toys, balls or a torchlight against the wall, sitting quietly near a cat or perhaps giving him a gentle stroke or grooming if the cat concerned won't find that too intrusive. Again, making the experience pleasurable by reinforcement with praise or a treat can help to consolidate the positive associations for the cat with the presence of small humans.

Never let anyone, including children, encourage a cat or kitten to play directly with fingers, toes or any other part of the human anatomy. This can lead, albeit unintentionally, to injury at a later date and sometimes to problems with aggression.

If your relationship with your cat has been very close, it may well be difficult to find the time to sustain the same degree of affection once the new baby arrives. So it would be sensible and kinder to your cat to dilute the emotional intensity between you well in advance. Anticipate your new timetable and establish a different routine for your cat which you are fairly confident you will be able to sustain in the future. Introduce changes gradually to minimise the impact. If your cat is used to undivided attention for much of the time, withdraw it initially for short periods as far in advance of the baby's arrival as possible. You can gradually lengthen the periods of withdrawal at a rate which reflects your cat's ability to cope. Instigate times of structured play or grooming to suit your new timetable and your cat's needs, but if he appears aroused or stressed, don't impose your attentions on him as he will only become more upset and may even lash out at you.

If your cat has existing behavioural problems which you have previously ‘put up with' now is the time to get them sorted out as it is likely they will only worsen with the upheaval and disruption caused by a tiny baby.

When your baby arrives, try to set aside time for your cat and stick to his established routines. Predictability is very important to felines. If you are simply too busy to cope with the demands of both baby and cat, consider inviting friends or family known to him to provide one-to-one sessions of play or grooming.

If your cat tries to run away from your children never try to thwart him. Flight is a natural feline reaction to anything strange. If you try to restrain him, it will cause him stress and fear could spill into aggression if he believes that he is trapped and has lost control of the situation.

This is especially important when you first bring the baby home. If you have undertaken the preparation detailed above, the cat will hopefully not be too averse to the new arrival. But installing plug-in Feliway diffusers at various points in the home, particularly areas associated with the baby, should help to provide reassurance. You may also win him over by offering him favoured food which is not normally available.

Some cats become more concerned about children when they are mobile than when they are tiny babies. A crawling or toddling child can take a cat by surprise and his or her squeals and shrieks can be frightening for a feline. Providing places of retreat for the cat is even more important at this stage.

Finally, children should never be brought up, even inadvertently, to view pets as playthings. From the outset they must be taught to respect the cat, to approach and handle him appropriately and well because ultimately there are so many benefits and pleasures to be derived from growing up in a family with a well-adjusted companion animal.

Story Murderous Moggies

Claim: Cats suck the breath from babies, sometimes killing them. 

Status: False. 

The story, passed on by a pregnant woman is about cats that get jealous of newborn infants. As it was described to me, the cats, no longer afforded the attention they once got prior to the infant's birth, will actually attempt to suffocate the infant. Specifically, she described a cat, "sucking the wind out of the baby," by placing its nose in the infants mouth while the infant is asleep. This immediately seemed unreasonably far-fetched, yet she maintains it's true since she has it "on the authority" of a number of other women. 

Origins: The idea that a cat could suck the breath of an infant is simply a misguided notion — cats just don't do that. It is said the smell of milk on the child's breath draws the feline in for the kill, but anyone who has been around housecats knows the average moggie doesn't much care for the liquid. (Given free choice between plain water and a bowl of milk, cats generally head for the water unless milk has been the only liquid offered to them from weaning onwards. Put more simply, unless the cat has been taught to like milk, it generally won't seek out that substance on its own.) 

Another theory advanced as to why a cat would want to harm a baby relates to the jealousy the pet will supposedly experience when the little bundle from heaven is brought into the household. No longer the center of attention, the neglected pet is allegedly capable of setting about to get rid of what it sees as the usurper. This theory is of far more recent coinage than the bit of lore it purports to explain, though, coming into fashion no earlier than the 20th century (while the "smother" belief dates to at least the 1700s). 

In 1791 a jury at a coroner's inquest in England rendered a verdict to the effect that a Plymouth child had met his death by a cat sucking out its breath. The superstition itself is older, with print sightings of it recorded from 1607 and 1708, so that 1791 verdict should be viewed with the realization that the jury was probably influenced by a snippet of "everybody knows" lore when it came time to explain a death for which there was no apparent cause. 

It is possible a cat might lie across the face of a sleeping child and thus upon extremely rare instances accidentally cause a death, but that is not the old wives' tale at hand wherein the cat does so with malice aforethought. A news story emerging in December 2000 appeared at first blush to be an instance of this sort of accident when a woman said she found her six-week-old son dead in his crib with the family cat laying on the baby's face. Further examination by pathologists laid this theory to rest — they attributed the 21 December 2000 death of 6-week-old Keiron Payne to sudden infant death syndrome. 

What is on record, however, are any number of accidental deaths of sleeping children caused by their parents' rolling over onto them, or from their turning around to face into a pillow. Children have also suffocated 

from being left sleeping on their tummies on waterbeds. And then there is "sudden infant death syndrome" (SIDS), the inexplicable passing of an otherwise healthy child in its sleep. 

Tragedy is hard enough to bear without its also being inexplicable. Better to blame the cat than to admit the cause of a child's death is unknown . . . and thus could strike down another youngster at some future date. 

Folk beliefs work to give folks a sense of control over their destinies and thus some small measure of security in a capricious world. If a parent can believe that preventing crib death is but a matter of keeping the cat out of the baby's room, that parent will sleep a lot easier than one who realizes such a tragedy could occur any night, cat or no cat. 

Cats have long been viewed as evil, and for centuries a number of superstitions featuring their bringing bad luck have abounded. Similar to the "sucking life from a child by swallowing its breath" superstition was one about not raising a kitten and a baby together, lest the cat thrive and the child waste away. In that superstition, the cat was supposed to be stealing the child's vitality by magic. 

As to how widely believed the "breath sucking" tale is, a 1929 article in the Nebraska State Journal quoted a doctor as having said he had seen "the family pet in the very act of sucking a child's breath, lying on the baby's breast, a paw on either side of the babe's mouth, the cat's lips pressing those of the child and the infant's face pale as that of a corpse, its lips with the blueness of death." The doctor's emphatic statements to the contrary, the legend is still a fatuous piece of lore. It turns up so often, however, that it's no wonder the legend is so widely believed. 

Barbara "catafalque for cat-at-fault" Mikkelson 

Prepare Your Cat for Your New Baby

Today, shelters are still visited by tearful mothers-to-be with cats in tow, having made their appointments after well-meaning relatives or old-school obstetricians have convinced them that keeping a cat risks the health and well-being of their unborn child. Don't succumb to these old wives' tales. Knowing the facts will help provide ways to safeguard both fetus and feline.

Before ...

The parasitic infection toxoplasmosis is perhaps a pregnant catkeeper's greatest fear. It can result in miscarriage, stillbirth or such birth defects as blindness, deafness, hydrocephalus or epilepsy. Since cats can become infected with the parasite by eating small mammals or birds, it is best to keep your cat indoors. Now is not a good time to befriend strays, as they may already be infected.

Toxoplasmosis cysts are shed in the feces of infected animals. Since cats often use gardens as litter boxes, wear gloves when gardening and when you are washing raw vegetables and fruits, handling raw meat or scrubbing food prep surfaces. You should also avoid rubbing your eyes until your hands have been washed. And do not eat or feed your cat raw or undercooked meat. To prevent any cysts that are passed in the feces from becoming infectious, scoop fecal matter at least twice a day. Better yet, use your "delicate condition" to get your mate to handle the dirt detail.

Some cats resemble little old maids who cannot tolerate change. These are the cats most likely to be affected by a new baby, so use the entire pregnancy to slowly prepare them. Play tapes of baby noises to acclimate your cat to the new sounds he's about to hear, or rub baby lotion on your hands before engaging in a pleasant activity with him to create positive associations with baby odors. Set up nursery furniture as soon as possible, and allow him several weeks to investigate before you select surfaces to declare off limits-such as the changing table and crib-so that he can see there's nothing scary here. However, don't make it so comfortable that he'll want to nap on them. Then, at least one month before the baby arrives, make the surfaces unwelcoming. Cut sheets of cardboard to the size of the furniture surfaces and cover one side with double-sided adhesive/masking tape. Cats tend to avoid sticky surfaces, and by the end of the month, he should steer clear of these sites.

If the litter box has been kept in the soon-to-be nursery, begin several months ahead of time to move it a few inches a day to its new location. If the transition is made too quickly, your cat may return to soil in his old spot. Covering that area with a solid object like a diaper pail or dresser may deter him.

Finally, any cat care routines that will be shifted from new mother to mate after the baby arrives should actually be switched one to two months before the birth. These might include feedings, grooming, play sessions and sleep partners/locations. If these were always shared activities, the change will make little difference to the cat. If not, the cat will need time to adjust to the style and skills of the new caregiver.

... And After Birth

When you first arrive home from the hospital, peacefully greet your cat in a quiet room without interruption. Once you've had a few minutes to reconnect, let in everyone else-mate, baby, grandparents, baby nurse and assorted well-wishers. Unless your cat is extremely social, he will flee the hoopla and go into hiding. Once things settle down, he will come tiptoeing back.

Place a used receiving blanket or piece of infantwear in a quiet area where the cat can investigate it. When nursing, allow the cat to approach and check things out. If he follows you into the nursery at naptime, make sure he doesn't jump into the crib. While there's certainly no truth to the myth that cats suck the air out of babies' lungs, a newborn does not have the capacity to turn over or even move her head at first. A heat-seeking cat who chooses to cuddle up close to the baby's face could make it difficult for the child to breathe. Close the door to the nursery when the baby is napping. If there is no door to close, either install a temporary screen door or place a crib tent over the crib to keep the cat out. These precautions also prevent the cat from urinating in the crib, something he may try if extremely stressed.

With the baby safely at rest, now's the perfect time to grab a catnap with your favorite feline.

Cats & Babies - Can They Exist

There are many varied opinions surrounding the topic of cats & newborn babies. Every year, countless cats are surrendered to shelters because a new baby has arrived & the parents worry about the risk the cat poses to the child. Most shelters are desperately overworked & under funded. It is far better for all concerned that future parents educate themselves on this matter.

During my own pregnancies it was suggested by several well meaning people that with a baby on the way we would have to get rid of the cats. People are very fearful of cats smothering babies. Despite a great deal of time trawling the Internet for information on this topic, I was only able to find two cases, one a conflicting story of Kieron Johnson, who was purportedly smotherd to death & one in a near miss, as covered in the British Medical Journal.  I am always interested to hear of verified stories because this is such an important issue.

It extremely important to take precautions. You can purchase a net to put over the crib so the cat can't sleep with the baby. Another good suggestion is to replace the door to the baby's nursery with a screen door. This enables the cat to see & smell the baby & not feel entirely left out, but it can't get into the bedroom.

One common myth is that cat's suck the baby's breath. This is untrue. If a cat is found close to the baby's head it's more likely due to the cat seeking some warmth. If the above suggestions are followed, this won't happen.

Make sure litter trays & food bowls are kept in an area the baby can't access, this is especially important when the child starts crawling. A safety gate is recommended to prevent your child getting close to the litter tray.

Ensure your cat is regularly de-flead & de-wormed. Make sure the products you use on your cat are safe to use around the baby. If you are worried about your cat scratching your baby, (which is highly unlikely), you can either regularly trim your cat's claws (see trimming cat's claws), or use Soft Paws, which are plastic caps you glue over your cat's claws.

They are also a much kinder alternative to declawing.
I was more concerned about what my child might do to a cat. Certainly with the majority of my cats I believe they would be scared of a baby and all the sounds that come from them. They have little interaction with small children, choosing to vacate the premises when a child is visiting. It is unfair to offload what was once a family pet & valued member of the family just because a baby is on the way. In my opinion pets can offer children so much. I wouldn't encourage a young child to pick up a cat. Teach the child what is acceptable behaviour, for example how to gently pet the cat. Ears, eyes, whiskers & the tail should not be pulled. Teach your child that the cat is a member of the family who has feelings too, and it should be treated with kindness & respect.

Cats harbour disease
Well yes, cats sometimes do harbour disease but there are very few diseases of the cat that are zoonotic (transmissible from cat to human). It is fairly rare to pick up a disease from a cat, personally I believe you (or your baby) are far more likely to catch a disease from a human than a cat. It is recommended that you take your cat to the vet for a thorough check up before your baby is born. Have the vet worm your cat & check it for Ringworm. Ensure you stick to a regular worming & de-fleaing regime. Keeping your cat indoors and away from roaming cats is your safest way to keep your cat disease & parasite free.

Toxoplasmosis
Toxoplasmosis is caused by a parasite called Toxoplasma Gondii. Many animals can get Toxoplasmosis including sheep, cattle & pigs. Cats shed the parasitic cysts in their faeces & which then infect humans & other animals.

In healthy adults, Toxoplasmosis usually causes only mild symptoms. If a woman becomes infected during her pregnancy it can have devastating affects on the unborn fetus. If you own a cat & are pregnant it is advisable to ask your doctor to do a blood test to see if you have antibodies to Toxoplasmosis, which would indicate a past exposure to the parasite. If you have been infected in the past, there is little to no risk of you passing it on to your unborn baby. If you haven't had prior exposure it is advisable to have your partner clean litter trays during your pregnancy. If this is not possible, use rubber gloves & try to avoid inhaling any dust from litter trays, it is advisable to wear a mask. It takes between 24-48 hours for the cysts to become infective, so daily cleaning of the litter tray will almost entirely eliminate the risk of infection. It is perfectly safe for pregnant women to co-exist with their family cat as long as these precautions are taken.

Humans can also become infected by handling (and eating) raw or undercooked meat & vegetables. Ensure your meat is thoroughly cooked & that you wash your hands & utensils after handling meat. There is a greater risk of you becoming infected with Toxoplasmosis from raw & undercooked meat than there is from your cat, if kept indoors.

Ringworm: This is caused by a fungi, not a worm. It is more a nuisance than a danger. It can sometimes be hard to eliminate from the environment, however with stringent cleaning & the use of anti-fungal creams it is can be cleared up. Again, if your cat is indoors and has had the all clear from your vet, there is little chance of you or your baby catching this.

Rabies: Rabies isn't a problem in Australia. Most (if not all) cats in countries with Rabies regularly vaccinate their cats, it is very rare for a cat to catch Rabies.

Cat Scratch Disease: This is caused by a bacteria called Bartonella henselae. This is rarely a problem in people with a healthy immune system, it is most often seen in immunocompromised people. Antibiotic treatment of you & your cat usually clears up this infection.

Salmonella: Caused by a bacteria of the Salmonella genus. This is most commonly acquired via oral ingestion. Cats are most likely to become infected after eating birds.

If you still have any doubts about raising a baby with a cat in the house I would recommend you speak to both your vet & your doctor who will be able to put your mind at ease.

During my pregnancy I spoke to several mothers who all assured me they had quite safely managed to raise cats & kids together & had no problems whatsoever. The people who warn you that cats & babies can't co-exist are always people who haven't actually researched this matter. They just repeat urban legends.

Important note:
Cats & new babies can co-exist together quite happily but your child's safety has to be of utmost importance. NEVER leave a baby or young child alone with any pet, cat included.

Cats & humans have lived together for thousands of years but it is important to remember that they are still wild animals & their behaviour cannot be predicted with 100% accuracy. A cat should never be permitted into the same room a baby/young child is sleeping & proper safety precautions should be taken to ensure the cat doesn't have access to the baby's room.

If proper safety precautions are taken to ensure your cat & baby/young child are only together under adult supervision your cat & child will be able to quite happily cohabit together & hopefully once the child grows older will form a long & lasting bond.

about Burmese Cat Breed

Burmese History

Burmese cats lived for centuries in Burma, Thailand and Malaya. In late 1800s they were known in England as Chocolate Siamese, but because they were not favoured they gradually died out in England and Europe. The ancestry of Burmese cats can be traced back to one cat named Wong Mau, who was a brown female from Burma and arrived to San Francisco in the early 1930's to Dr. Joseph Thompson.

Through selective breeding to Siamese, the Burmese was established as a distinct breed. Lighter coloured kittens were occasionally produced and eventually the American breeders requested cognition from CFA for these "dilute" colours; first, as another breed named Malayan, then later as a dilute division of Burmese.

The Burmese Appearance

The Burmese is a strong, athletic and elegant short haired cat that carry surprising weight for its size and has often been described as "brick wrapped in silk." It has a fine, close, even, and glossy coat . Their coats are very short, satin-like in texture, and generally require little grooming other than daily petting. At maturity males are large, the females are more delicate and graceful, and the difference in weight between them may be two or three pounds.

The Burmese is a compactly built cat with a small round head and wide-set eyes which are yellow or golden. A Burmese's tail is tapered. The European Burmese is an elegant yet not so fragile cat. It is medium sized, has good bone structure and muscular development and very expressive eyes. The major difference between these breeds is the colours: 

Burmese Colours

The Burmese cat has ten main recognised colors in Australia, United Kingdom and Europe

Brown - the original Burmese color, a rich warm seal brown.

Blue - a soft blue-gray with a silver sheen. 

Chocolate - a warm milk chocolate. 

Lilac - a pale delicate dove gray with a pinkish cast. 

Red - The fur color is red-orange on the torso and melon-orange on the outer coat

Cream - cream with a distinct bloom on the head and back, giving a powdered effect. 

Brown tortie - brown with shades of red. 

Blue tortie - Blue with shades of cream. 

Chocolate tortie - Chocolate with shades of red. 

Lilac tortie - lilac with shades of cream. 

In America

Sable, the same as 'Brown' above

Champagne, the same as 'Chocolate' above

Platinum, the same a 'Lilac' above

Blue, the same as 'Blue' above

In America many cat associations recognize the four principal colors (i.e., sable, blue, chocolate/champagne, lilac/platinum) for Burmese cats. Only a few organizations, recognize the remaining colors. In many American associations, additional colors, as well as certain other physical features, characterize the European (or "Foreign") Burmese.

Burmese Cat Personality

The Burmese is very friendly inquisitive cat with an outgoing, loving nature - this is why Burmese are one of the most popular breeds. It has been said that the Burmese are more like dogs than cats in their behaviour. When encouraged from kitten hood, they will fetch. They will greet you at the door when you come home and comfort you when you are ill or unhappy - they give unconditional love.

The Burmese is an upfront cat, not left out of where it is all happening. It's a participator - alert, curious, intelligent, interfering and gregarious: you cannot ignore it! When you sit down, the Burmese thinks you are offering him a warm and comfortable bed. When you kneel to weed the garden, the Burmese will use your back as a vantage -point from which to observe the environment. When you do your daily chores in the house, the Burmese will assume that your shoulder is the best place from where tasks can be assisted.

The Burmese likes to explore the environment. Anything that is mechanical and moves makes a good game for the Burmese. They understand door handles very quickly, and the owners often have to fit door levers upside down. Height is not deterrent. Very muscular, the Burmese loves to jump on the tops of doors and surprise unwary visitors. Nevertheless, Burmese do settle down as they grow out of adolescence and they can be trained by saying NO! kindly and firmly, but you need to start early and may need to persist, because the Burmese are very strong-minded and they effortlessly rule their families.

Even though the Burmese is an ideal breed for families, children and older people - for those who want a less interactive pet, one that will spend all its time in relaxation, the Burmese is not the right choice. Also, the social nature of the Burmese does mean that they need company - human and feline. Toys cannot replace this company. Therefore it is important that, when the owner is at work, to buy two Burmese kittens, ideally from the same litter. That way the stress of moving is halved and the cats' temperament is much more relaxed and loving on long run. On the other hand, if they are left in the home on their own they will want to play all night and disturb the owner's sleep, also they will find something to occupy their time. Unfortunately, what they consider fun we call destructive. This principle applies to all cats, but with the more intelligent, social and active breed such as Burmese, it is particularly important that they have company. A happy Burmese is a blessing to the home; an unhappy one can disrupt the household.

About Norwegian Forest Cat Breed

Bright emerald green eyes with a band of gold. Long flowing hair. Sweet-expressioned faces. Jaunty ear and toe trimmings. Each time you see a Norwegian Forest Cat is a feast for the eyes. Each time you touch their spun-silk soft coats is a delight to the fingertips. 

These are the cats that explored the world with the Vikings, protecting the grain stores on land and sea, and which are believed to have left their progeny on the shores of North America as a legacy to the future. 

These lovely cats are really two for the price of one, they can differ so greatly in looks from summer to winter. Some time in the spring they take off their “winter underwear,” the downy undercoat that provides warmth, and the long non-tangling outer guardhairs that act as protection from rain and snow. The contrast can be quite extreme. The inner-ear hair that deflects the wind and snow (and can be three to four inches long, curving out and around the ear like flexible racing stripes) remains all year. The tail is always magnificent, being as much as twelve inches or more when fanned to its fullest. 

Perhaps the most impressive part of the coat is the mane. On a fully mature cat, i.e. one over five years of age and which is challenged by the most adverse cold weather, the mane is nothing less than spectacular. It is long, dense and very, very impressive! This, unfortunately, may disappear in the spring, but rest assured that it will begin to lengthen again as the days begin to shorten. These cats are designed by Mother Nature. 

They appear in coats of most colors, from pure white to deepest coal black, with every possible coat pattern and color combination in between, with the exception of the colorpoint colors as seen in the Siamese or Persian-Himalayan such as seal point or chocolate point. Darker cats require less coat to keep warm since they absorb more heat from the sun. Lighter cats tend to have fuller coats with more undercoat. Some colors change from light to darker tones with the seasons. Mother Nature is so thoughtful! And, finally, because they are a natural breed, their mature size will differ from line to line. 

Is their Norse name accurate? Yes, the skogkatt, meaning forest cat, really did come out of the Scandinavian forests some time in the last 4,000 years. However, they are not feral but are among the most people-oriented cats. Of course their personalities differ, depending upon the type home in which they spend their early kittenhood. As with any other breed, a kitten handled and petted by many loving people from birth and which has been exposed to children, cats and dogs will be different from one born and raised in an isolated area with limited human contact. 

A question frequently asked is about the care the long coats require. As one breeder is fond of saying: “Mother Nature does not have hairdressers in the deep woods, so she did not design the cat to require the daily attention necessary to some other longhaired breeds.” Very little, if any, combing is required for non-show cats, but is recommended during spring shedding. 

The Forest Cat was presented to the CFA Board for registration acceptance in February 1987, and in 1993, these wonderful works of art from nature were accepted for full championship status. 

Pricing on Norwegian Forest Cats usually depends on type, applicable markings and bloodlines distinguished by Grand Champion (GC), National Regional winning parentage (NW or RW) or of Distinguished Merit parentage (DM). The DM title is achieved by the dam (mother) having produced five CFA grand champion/premier (alter) or DM offspring, or sire (father) having produced fifteen CFA grand champion/premier or DM offspring. Usually breeders make kittens available between twelve and sixteen weeks of age. After twelve weeks, kittens have had their basic inoculations and developed the physical and social stability needed for a new environment, showing, or being transported by air. Keeping such a rare treasure indoors, neutering or spaying and providing acceptable surfaces (e.g. scratching posts) for the natural behavior of scratching (CFA disapproves of declawing or tendonectomy surgery) are essential elements for maintaining a healthy, long and joyful life. 

Cat pictures so beautiful